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PC Troubleshooting

There’s an amazing feeling of pride from building your own PC. You’ve chosen the perfect parts, ones that mix the best power you can get with your budget, and aimed at no one else’s idea of what you need. You’ve carefully installed them all, you’ve wired your system together, screwed in the last screw, and hit the power button for a quick test, and...Nothing Nada. Zip.
PC Troubleshooting
There’s nothing that’s going to make you feel quite so small. But do not despair! This actually happens to the best of us, and while it may seem daunting fi nding out what’s gone wrong, and how you can fix it, is just a matter of being thorough.
Double check the wire placement with the diagram in your motherboard’s manual.
First things, do check it isn’t something obvious. Check your power cables, and make sure your PSU doesn’t have its own power switch – if it does, make sure it’s switched on. If all of that’s fine, it’s time tostart working down the line. Check the wall socket – you never know – and any powerboard you might be using. Then check the voltage switch on your PSU, and make sure it matches local voltage. If all this works, switch out the power cable you’re using, in case that’s the culprit – if you’re at all like a lot of us in the o†ffice, you’ll have a lot of these, and they can fail in time.
At this point, if everything outside the case is working, it’s time to dive back in.This may sound odd, but give the inside of your case a good sniˆ . If you’re smell anything burnt or like ozone, or if you can hear a high-pitched whine from the PSU, guess what – it’s your PSU. It’s much rarer than it used to be, PSUs tend to have two points of failure – and they’re at the end of their life (obviously), and when fi rst turned on in your shiny new PC. If this is the case with your build, test a spare PSU; you’ll likely have the one from your old PC, and it’ll do fi ne for testing.If it works, return your faulty unit and get a new one. You should be fi ne at this point, and get about installing your operating system.If all seems fi ne with your PSU, the next most likely culprit are the headers for the power switch on the front of the case. These simple cables are usually nested in amongst audio and LED cables, as well the reset button, and are quite easy to install in the wrong spot. Double check the wire placement with the diagram in your motherboard’s manual.These are the most common problems with a newly built PC, and every time we’ve had a system fail to power up, it’s been one of these things. That said, if everything is in order, see if your motherboard has its own power button (many overclocking models will), and try that. If that works, it’s likely the case’s power switch that is the fail point. You can either contact the manufacturer for a replacement, or, again, return the unit and get a new one.
If you’re still living in the Land of No PC, well... now things get really tedious. At this stage, it’s likely going to be a component issue. 
Change out the CMOS battery, and if that still doesn’t do the trick, then it’s time to get drastic and consider the possibility that your motherboard is hors de combat. Essentially, even testing this theory means basically rebuilding your system.
We’re sorry
Unless, of course, it’s our old nemesis heat, or a faulty PSU that’s slowly failing. 
is starting, but still failing to complete the boot process properly. If you’re getting power – fans turn on, drives start to whine, and so on – but the machine then shuts down, it’s likely a fault of some kind that can be found by following the above process of checking cables and internals. 
In this instance, though, checking the CPU is properly seated is probably a good idea. Your machine could also get stuck in a cycle of powering up, shutting down, then powering up again, basically looping on and off. Nine times of then this means you’ve either got a faulty motherboard, or your PSU is either faulty, or possible not powerful enough.
There are a lot of possible errors to list, and our space is limited, but in all our experience, we’ve found we’re never alone when it comes to odd startup errors. The internet, however, is your friend.

ALL OPERATING SYSTEMS ARE... NOT GO

So, you’re machine is powering on, you’ve gone through the Windows install process (and had a cup of co ee while waiting), and you think you’re all good to go... And bam.
If your machine powers on, and stays on (woohoo!), but shows an error message before booting into the OS, and stops there, take note of the error.
Common errors include ‘BOOTMGR is missing’ or ‘NTLDR is missing’; in fact, it’s usually a missing fi le or driver of some kind that is the culprit. As we said, take note of the exact message, and try searching for it on Google (on a working device, of course) – you’ll more than likely fi nd exactly how to go about dealing with the problem, from messing about with boot orders in the BIOS to running a Startup Repair of Windows.
It’s also possible that you’re new machine works well for a while, but then either blue-screens or shuts down entirely. Depending on your Windows OS (yes, we’re talking Windows, because talking about multiple OSes could fi ll a LOT of pages), you should access MSconfig or System Configuration. Select the Diagnostic Startup option, reboot, and see how things go. If all is well, start re-enabling applications. It’s a little tedious, but it should fi nd what’s causing the issue.
Unless, of course, it’s our old nemesis heat, or a faulty PSU that’s slowly failing. The latter is unlikely, so see if your motherboard comes with any tools for monitoring CPU and system heat. It’s entirely possible that if your new build is not adequately cooled, that slow heat build-up is causing the issues. If you’re CPU isgetting toasty, think about installing some extra fans, or double check the airfl ow in case cables are getting in the way.Troubleshooting can be tiring, but hopefully, after all this, you’ll have a smoothly running system. And speaking of tiring, I think even I need a nap.

Facebook scams that install malware

What happened ?

Security company Bitdefender revealedthat the UK’s most c1icked—on Facebook scam attempts to trick you into thinking you can see how many people have viewed your profile.
Bitdefender says this is by far the most effective scam on Facebook, comprising 30 per cent of fake links that have been clicked in users’ News Feed. The company’s list of the 10 most clicked scams shows that criminals’ main tactic is to tempt users with scams relating to Facebook itself — for example, by promising to show you how to change the colour of your Facebook page from blue. 
Facebook scams that install malware

These particular scams can be hard to spot because they are presented as Facebook introducing a new feature. Only one scam in Bitdefender’s top 10 uses the bait of a celebrity sex video, which has previously been a common tactic used by hackers. 

In 2013, millions of people fell for a scam claiming to show a sex tape of US pop star Taylor Swift. This year, the promise of a sex video featuring Barbadian singer Rihanna is more popular weapon for hackers,
Clicking any of the seams will take you to a malicious website that tries to infect your PC with a virus.

What should you do?

Be aware that scammers are increasingly trying to con you on Facebook by offering tools for the site that don’t actually exist. One way these may appear in your News Feed is because they’ve been unwittingly ‘liked’ by one of your Facebook friends. To keep yourself safe, install Bitdefender’s Safego, which is a free Facebook app that scans links you receive from your friends. If Safego identifies a link as malicious, you should click the button next to it to warn the friend that sent it.

Why I am receiving these graphics card warnings ?

The question:
I'm wondering if you can help me with my Windows Vista problems. They don't appear to affect the computer‘s performance or my ability to use it, but do result in annoying messages that appear every time I start my PC.
The first message appears just after I switch on, saying “Unsupported Video Configuration Detected”. It also says that my computer “has an add-in graphics card but the monitor cable is plugged into the integrated video connector”. I am offered the option to press F1 to continue or F2 to enter setup. I press F1 and all seems fine. Then, when Windows has launched, I get this warning: “The Catalyst Control Centre is not supported by the driver version of your [obscured words] graphics adapter. Please update your ATI graphics driver, or enable your [obscured words] using the Displays Manager.” The obscured words are off the edge of the screen, so I can’t read them. Do you have any idea what’s causing this and how to silence these annoying messages?

The answer: 
The messages contain clues to the cause of your problem. Catalyst Control Centre is software from a company called ATI, which makes graphics cards. So, your PC has a dedicated ATI graphics card installed and also a graphics card that’s integrated onto the motherboard. From the warning messages it sounds
like your monitor’s cable is plugged into the connector for the motherboard’s graphics card. That’s fine if that’s what you or the manufacturer intended, but your PC detects a dedicated graphics card fitted, so you’re seeing these messages. 
graphics card warnings solution
The solution most likely to work is to look around the rear of your PC and plug the monitor cable into the other connector. If it does, all well and good your problem is solved.

If not, it could be that your drivers are out of date or that you need to install Microsoft’s .NET framework, which is required for ATl’s Catalyst Control Centre to work correctly. You can download the latest version of .NET from http://www.microsoft.com/net/downloads and the latest version of your graphics card’s drivers from http://support.amd.com/en-us/download.

Finally, there's also the outside possibility that the dedicated graphics card has been loose or faulty since you bought it, so you’ve always relied on the motherboard’s graphics connector, consider this normal and have put up with the messages. If this is the case, then switch off the computer and remove the power cable, earth yourself by touching a metal—grounded object (like a radiator) then carefully open up the case and look inside. Remove the graphics card’s retaining screw then remove and reinsert the graphics card, using firm thumb pressure. Reassemble, attach the monitor cable to the graphics card’s connector then fire up your PC.
If it doesn’t work, open the case again and then remove the card completely. This should fix your first message. If the second still appears when Windows loads, use Control Panel to uninstall Catalyst Control Centre.

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